La Masseria

Published May 5, 2010 at 9:58 p.m.
Exemplary Italian fare in East Greenwich
The first thing to say about La Masseria is that, despite its name meaning “farmhouse” and its décor focusing on earth tones with exposed brick and pitchfork tines hanging on one wall, it’s a beautiful space.

LA MASSERIA 401.398.0693 lamasserianyc.com 223 Main St, East Greenwich Lunch Tues-Sun, 12-3 PM; Dinner Tues-Thurs, 5-10 PM; Fri-Sat, 5-11 PM; Sun, 3-10 PM Major Credit Cards Full Bar Sidewalk-Level Access

The first thing to say about La Masseria is that, despite its name meaning “farmhouse” and its décor focusing on earth tones with exposed brick and pitchfork tines hanging on one wall, it’s a beautiful space. It has a country feel, but it’s also light, airy, sophisticated. Kudos to Libby Langdon, who also designed La Masseria’s Manhattan restaurant and who has maintained her Rhode Island ties.

Owners Peppe Iuele and Enzo Ruggiero were childhood friends in Capri, and they combined their passions for food and wine, respectively, to open the flagship eatery in 2004, when Esquire food critic John Mariani picked it as one of the best new restaurants in America. Executive chef and co-owner is Pino Colodonato, who grew up on a farm in Puglia. He remembers the grains and beans of the land as well as the seafood, and his expertise in those foods shines in his menu.

The terra mare del tavoliere ($15.50) as an appetizer is a signature dish: the tenderness of the grilled baby octopus and cuttlefish, the definitive preparation of the broocoli rabe with it and the fava bean pureé on which they sit, highlight the chef’s skill. The fritto misto del mare (fried calamari, shrimp and sea scallops, $16.50) does the same.

These appetizers are generous enough to share and worth every penny. Similarly, the crispy fried melt-in-your-mouth shoestring zucchini ($6.50) is a surprise. And mozzarella is made daily at La Masseria, stuffed with vegetables, then rolled and sliced ($9.50). Our incarnation had eggplant, asparagus, and roasted red peppers and was delicious.

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