Review: India restaurant

Published Feb. 24, 2010 at 4:44 p.m.
A Feast for the Senses
...At one time in the mid-'90s, India had branched out to three or four restaurants in Providence and the East Bay...

INDIA 1060 Hope St, Providence 401.421.2600 Indiarestaurant.com Mon-Thurs, 11 am-10 pm; Fri, 11 am-11 pm; Sat brunch, 11 am-3 pm, Dinner, 3-11 pm; Sun brunch, 11 am-3 pm, Dinner, 3-10 pm Major credit cards Full Bar Sidewalk-level accessible

At one time in the mid-'90s, India had branched out to three or four restaurants in Providence and the East Bay. Now that its Rhode Island realm is pared to one location, it's nice to be reminded what a luxurious, inviting, restful, and beautiful place the Hope Street spot is. The warmth of candle glow frames the bar, and the flickering colors of flame enhance walls, chairs, and booths.

Oversized portraits capture your attention on one side of the main dining space; subtitled Indian films on a large-screen dominate another side; fluted arches into intimate alcoves engage the eye on yet another. Soft Indian music completes the mood. And all of this visual and aural stimulation before you've even had a chance to taste the bright curries, smell the fragrant biryanis, or break off pieces of warm roti.

We began with a north Indian street snack called papri chaat ($4.95 or $7.95) and samosas ($4.95), The turnover-like samosas are baked, with potatoes, peas, and delectable spices. The papri chaat is like nachos, with thick wafers, akin to bagel chips, dotted with chick peas, smothered in tamarind chutney, drizzled with yogurt and fresh cilantro. Truly addictive. The roti ($2.95) is an unleavened whole wheat pita-like bread, baked with the gentle taste of fenugreek.

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